What to see in Lisbon in 3 days
Lisbon works well in three days if you organise it by hill rather than by list of sights. These slopes don't forgive a badly planned itinerary.
The principle: one hill a day
The city sits on seven hills and the classic mistake is climbing and descending four times a day. Group by area and climb once per day, using the lifts and funiculars for the hardest ascents.
Day 1: Baixa, Chiado and Alfama
Start at the bottom in Praça do Comércio, climb through the Baixa to Chiado, then cross into Alfama. São Jorge Castle is right at the top: arrive before midday, when there are fewer people and less heat. Finish descending Alfama's lanes at dusk, when it's at its best.
Day 2: Belém
Reached by tram or bus along the riverfront. Jerónimos Monastery, Belém Tower and whichever museum appeals. It's a flat day, welcome after the previous one. Book the monastery ticket, the queues are long.
Day 3: Sintra or the viewpoints
Sintra is 40 minutes by commuter train and fills a whole day: palaces, gardens and a winding forest road. If you'd rather stay, spend the day on the Bairro Alto and Graça viewpoints and the LX Factory area.
The transport worth using
Tram 28 runs through much of the historic quarter and is a plan in itself, though it's packed: board it early at the terminus rather than mid-route. The lifts and funiculars save you the worst climbs and are covered by the transport pass.
What to book
Jerónimos and Sintra's Pena Palace have serious queues in season. Both are timed tickets. Everything else can be improvised.
Footwear and slopes
A serious warning: the paving is polished cobblestone and it's slippery, especially in rain. Wear rubber soles and expect more elevation change than the map suggests.
When to go and budget
April to June and September to October are best: 20 to 25 degrees and long light. A full day runs 60 to 90 euros per person with simple accommodation. Eating away from the viewpoint areas cuts the bill considerably.
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